With over 270 kilometers of track, 951 tramcars, and 35 lines, the tram system in Prague is the perfect way to explore or navigate the city. It offers consistent views of architecture, people and whatever else happens to be outside your window. One handy aspect of this is the ability to people-watch, which offers an alternative option for getting to know both the city and its inhabitants. For example, you may have heard rumors of the amorous nature of young Czech adults; make note of how many examples of PDA occur at tram stops along your route and you’ll finally have some proof.
Besides looking outside your window, turning your focus to your fellow passengers can be even more enlightening. As a visitor to a foreign location, it’s important to familiarize yourself with the customs and courtesies of the culture. While you may not have the opportunity to talk with a Czech person firsthand, you can learn a lot by observing typical behavior on trams and other modes of public transportation.
Tip #1: Be quiet.
Aside from big game days for local sports teams like Sparta and Slavia, the volume level on trams is akin to that of a sacred place of worship. The whispery state of public conduct in Prague points back to the age of Communism, which plastered stolid expressions and tight lips on the faces of Czechs. A couple decades after democracy reinstated itself, remnants of that lifestyle persist in such places as tramcars.
I learned so much when, on my first Monday morning in the city, I was the recipient of cherubic glares from a neat row of children riding the tram to school. They occupied one whole length of the car, and defied what would be conventional in the States by keeping their morning banter at a whisper-quiet level. Besides the historical background that explains this, being mindful of your chatter and chuckles is just a matter of being polite, so take a page from the kiddies and avoid alienation by your hosts.
Trams also provide a cheaper and more reliable mode of transportation than a taxi does—corrupt cabbies have been known to charge naïve tourists up to four times the honest price for a trip! For a single trip, adult tickets cost less than a dollar (20 CZK), whether you need to transfer lines or not. Tickets are available at certain tram stops, metro stations and even convenience stores called “tabaks”. Beware: as easy as it is to get a ticket, it’s even easier to be caught without one.
A turnstile doesn’t regulate entrance on trams, nor will the conductor ask to see your ticket when you board. Rather, you time-stamp your ticket on board and hold on to it for the duration of your ride—classic use of the honor system. Ticket inspectors make unannounced rounds and when they flash their badge you must produce your valid ticket. Duncan Minshull, a student from England on holiday in Prague, learned this the hard way after innocently assuming the trams were a free ride. “You never knew who to pay or whether you had to pay at all… nothing seemed very clear,” he said. Penalties for an invalid or absent ticket are steep: around $45 (950 CZK), which is reduced to around $25 (500 CZK) in case of an on-the-spot payment. If the numbers don’t scare you, the ticket inspectors themselves might do the trick.
On a late night return trip from a bar in Old Town, a friend and I sat sleepily on two seats in the middle of a mostly empty car. Soon after crossing the Vltava River into Prague 7, a man walked up to us, stood uncomfortably close, and displayed a small toy-looking badge in his hand—no words, just action. Never having been checked for a ticket before, my initial reaction was to guard my bag from a potential robber. Neither of us moved, so he shoved the badge right in our faces and stated something in Czech. Finally registering his identity as an employee of the city, I took out my wallet and showed my 3-month pass, still holding my bag tight just in case the badge really was a toy.
While such an occurrence would only jar a foreigner, other aspects of the night trams are universally irksome. To be fair to the public transportation system, the trams do run 24-hours a day, with 24 day lines and 9 night lines that run from midnight to 5:00 or 6:00 AM. But despite that convenience, they usually frustrate more than they accommodate. Slowed intervals of stops (40 minutes before another tram rolls around), the common need to transfer to another line, and crowding due to fewer lines are just a few of the reasons why you may want to shell out some cash for a cab—just make sure to ask how much it will cost before getting in to avoid swindling.
While some of this may make the trams sound like a terror, they really aren’t. In fact, they can be quite enchanting. Take for example the Nostalgic Tram no. 91, a historic tram that runs on weekends and holidays from the end of March through mid-November. While a little pricier than regular fares (around $1.20, or 25 CZK for an adult), the trip includes passage on an antique tramcar as well as a special route from Vozovna Střešovice through the city center. Another photo-op packed journey is that along regular routes 22 or 23, considered to be the city’s most scenic. For even more exciting sights, a trip to the Public Transport Museum gives visitors a view into the past, with discontinued antique tramcars and other transportation items on display. And with the recent introduction of the Škoda 14 T, it looks like Prague might have a few more trams to add to the museum.
According to the Škoda website, “the vehicle will conform to the requirements of us both in the classic urban public transport systems and on the lines of high-speed streetcars.” More importantly, by providing a middle low-floor section of the car, the new additions will also make travel easier for passengers with limited mobility or baby carriages. And in case you’re stuck on a night tram, crowding probably won’t be an issue since there are five sections per car, as opposed to the two sections on older models. Practicality like that is key, but there’s something to be said about the new tramcars’ look—with a coat of shiny red and silver paint and a futuristic aerodynamic design, they’re definitely an aesthetic step up from their predecessors.
While the new cars excite some, they also confuse others. “From what I know about the Czech budget crisis, I don’t see why the city needs new tramcars when the old ones work fine,” said Rebecca Houston, an American studying in Prague. “Plus, the old 5-trams are kind of quaint,” she added. Minshull echoed similar sentiments, saying that older models add to the charm of such an old city.
Whether you manage to hop an old-school fiver or find yourself on a Škoda 14 T, make sure to use your eyes and ears when cruising to your destination. Czech is not only a hard language conversationally, it’s also equally hard to read. Hence, keep your eyes on the route list (usually near the front of the car) and listen to the announcer—a combination of the two will ensure that you don’t miss your stop.
If you follow these tips, rules and lessons, riding the trams will be no problem. While they once might have seemed like just another way to get around the city, Prague’s trams will surely add a scenic and enjoyable touch to your visit.
1 comment:
So, this is fascinating. But, why??
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